Author Archive: Dan P.

’97 Dinner

19970209

Okay, this one’s a doozy. I was on a momentary history kick. So I’d gone back and done some searching on things that happened in various fields in February of ’97s – starting with 1397 and moving forward. In blog format the table layout isn’t going to work, so the table was laid out with columns for Year, Art (each with a thumbnail of a painting), Literature (each with a quote from something published at that time relating to food), Politics (an event), Food & Wine (my menu). I think this is also the first dinner at which I took some photos….

The Second Sunday Supper Circle’s ’97 Dinner
February 9, 1997

pisanello1397

Pisanello (Antonio Pisano), most well known painting “Portrait of a Princess of the House of Este”

“And namely, fro the white wyn of Lepe, … This wyn of Spaigne crepeth subtilly.” Geoffrey Chaucer, The Pardoner’s Tale

Union of Kalmar between Sweden, Denmark and Norway

Asian broth with a medley of smoked shellfishes and fishes served with Hidalgo Manzanilla Fina


holbein1497

Hans Holbein the Younger, most famous for his paintings of Henry Viii and family

“Her is good rink, and here is good pie.” John Heywood, A Mery Play

Cornwall Rebellion, Vasco da Gama rounds the Cape of Good Hope

Cornish root vegetable pasties and green peppercorn cream served with a 1995 Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay


greco1597

El Greco paints “St. Martin and the Beggar”

“Will you strive for wine?”
“Give us a fresh cup; I will have ye friends.” John Lyly, the Woman in the Moone

Japan campaigns against Korea

Kanso amazake marinated lamb with mint sauce served with a 1988 Cavalleri Tajardino


canaletto1697

Canaletto (Antonio Canale), famous for paintings of piazzas and courtyards in Venice

“Read, read, sirrah! and refine your appetite … feast your mind … read and take your nourishment in at your eyes; shut up your mouth, and chew the cud of understanding;” William Congreve, Love for Love

China conquers western Mongolia

Duck confit and fresh ham with crispy wontons and plum/brandy sauce served with a 1971 Chateau Haut-Brion


hiroshige1797

Ando Hiroshige, known for his series of paintings of the 53 Stations along the Mt. Fuji pilgrimage trail

“For he on honey-dew hath fed, And drunk the milk of Paradise.” Samuel Taylor-Coleridge, Kubla Khan

Napoleon conquers Austria

A selection of cheeses (Bleu Castello, San Marcellin and San Luca) served with a 1992 Hiedler Weissburgunder halbtrocken


matisse1897

Henri Matisse, known for his use of color, especially in paintings of simple, daily life

“Who will have some lemonade? You know our rules: total abstinence.”
“No use, dear. They’ve all had champagne.” Bernard Shaw, Candida

Turkey declares war on Greece

Lemon curd served with a 1988 Pol Roger Brut champagne

80045_02The table, set for dinner.

80045_03My boyfriend Mark, and someone who I can’t recognize from the photo.

80045_04Raymond, the maitre d’ from Felidia where I was working; Frank, my friend who has illustrated my books; and friend Bob

80045_06The lamb.

80045_07The duck confit, ham and crispy wontons.

80045_08The lemon curd.

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The January Red Dinner

19970112

A study in red, long before “monochromatic” dinners became all the rage among chefs in the 2010s…. The photo forming the foundation of the menu, if it doesn’t immediately register is of a section of Jupiter (January, get it?) showing off it’s famed “red spot”.

The Second Sunday Supper Circle
The January Red Dinner
1997.01.02

Roasted Red Pepper Soup with Prosciutto Bread
1994 Domaines Ott Château de Selle Rosé

Tomato Water & Lobster Risotto with Red Currants & Pistachios
N.V. Champagne de Venoge Princesse Rosé

Red Cooked Red Snapper, Jicama, Bamboo Shoots & Oyster Mushrooms
1993 Domaine Vacheron Sancerre Rouge

Braised Oxtail, Grilled Radicchio and Pickled Red Grapes
1975 Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso

St. Andre & Cheshire Cheeses
1961 Château Citran Haut-Médoc

Sweet Tomato & Black Walnut Tart
1976 Parcé & Fils Banyuls “Domaine du Mas Blanc”

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The Best Affordable Wines from Around the World

Q San Francisco
January 1997
Pages 40-41

affordablewinesIf you were going to go on a round-the-world trip and had only one steamer trunk, what would you take? Tradition says all you need is a towel, toothbrush, and some sort of witty guide to where you plan to be. Socks, a nice sweater, jeans – both ripped and not, maybe a sort of suit or sport jackety thing are all optional but a good idea. I, of course, would add to the list a corkscrew. The last you thing you want is to end up in Bordeaux trying to pry open your Château Lafite with the gum stimulator on your toothbrush.

Here, with minimal explanation, is a look at some wines that won’t empty your wallet as we travel around the world. On the other hand, I’m not planning to drink from the bottom of the barrel. Due to space limitations, I’m going to take on the unenviable task of picking my current favorite white and favorite red from each major wine producing country.

To coin a phrase, wine starts at home. And from a San Francisco perspective that means Napa Valley. And, ever since the 1970s when a few local wines beat out a few French wines in blind competition, Napa has been known for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Without hesitation, I’d go for what I consider to be one of California’s finest red wines, Mount Veeder Reserve. For white, I would go for Chateau Potelle V.G.S. Chardonnay. The “V.G.S.”, by the way, stands for “Very Good Shit”, except on forms filed with the government where the last word is amended to “Stuff”.

Heading down south, way down south, Argentina and Chile have lately hit the news with the wines they are producing. Most of the hype seems to be for white wines, but I have yet to taste one that I really liked. Both countries have a long history of producing delicious, rustic styled reds, that have only improved with newer winemaking techniques. From Chile, sample the Miguel Torres Cabernet Sauvignon. Argentina’s best winery, in my mind, is Bodegas y Cavas Weinert, who produce a fabulous Cabernet Sauvignon.

Staying in the southern hemisphere, but moving across an ocean, the best of African wines come from South Africa. Now that we’re able to sample wines from this formerly embargoed country, there are some true delights to be had. Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc and Blaauklippen Zinfandel rise to the top of my list.

In Europe we find the highest concentration of countries producing wine. Whether it’s jolly old England or somewhere out in the Balkan hills, wine is produced throughout almost every European country. In Portugal the best white wines are probably the Vinho Verdes, especially when made from the Alvarinho grape; Soalheiro stands out as a premium producer. Red wines are generally just called Vinho Tinto, making them somewhat harder to categorize, but my favorite is probably Casa Ferreirinha’s Vinha Grande.

Spain has, of late, due to heavy public relations work, become known for its outstanding Riojas. And there are many that are truly wonderful. However, my favorites come from outside this region. For white, Valdamore Albarino (the same grape as the Portuguese Vinho Verde above), and for red, with no reservations, Torres Gran Coronas, either black or white label, the latter being much less expensive.

France is going to be tough, given the number of wines being produced. However, much of the good wine that we are able to get here is not for the budget conscious, and much of what fits into that consciousness is, to be polite, swill. That helps narrow things down. While Burgundies may be the pinnacle of French whites, to get a really good one costs. For sheer drinking pleasure, I’d opt for a Loire Valley wine, most probably one of Robert Denis’ Touraine-Azay-Le-Rideau wines from the Chenin Blanc grape. For reds, I have of late become enamored with a small Burgundy commune called Maranges, the best producer of which is Baron de la Charriere.

It is amazing how difficult it is to convince people to drink Riesling. As famed wine writer Jancis Robinson said about it, “Unbeatable quality; indisputably aristocratic. Ludicrously unfashionable.” While the cheap stuff is often arguably too sweet or too insipid to drink, there is much that is dry and high quality. From Germany, try a J.J. Christoffel Riesling Spatlese from the Erdener Trepchen vineyard. Reds are a bit tougher, but, if you can find it, Schloss Schonborn Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir) is a real winner.

Italy is as tough or tougher than France to narrow down, mostly because very little of it is high-priced. This leaves a much larger group of wines to select from. I would be, however, perfectly delighted with a bottle of Mastroberardino Fiano d’Avellino on the table for our white, and Capezzana Carmignano Riserva for our red.

Switzerland is, of late, producing many high quality wines, but most are overpriced. Robert Gilliard’s Ermitage de Sion is quite good, several Merlots from the Ticino area have been worth trying. Austrian wines too, are showing promise, Rieslings from the Nigl family are among the best, and, as I write this, just last night I tasted a delicious red, Umathum Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir again).

Greece is now producing wines besides pine-pitch tarnished Retsina that make it to our shores. Boutari makes a very nice red, the Naoussa Grande Reserve, and a light, refreshing white, Santorini.

Down under, as they say, Australia and New Zealand are the hot spots of the winemaking world. Australia being essentially the same size as the U.S. makes it just as difficult to select a favorite. One of the nice things though, is Australian winemakers love to experiment. Two such experiments have come to my attention recently. Tim Adams Semillon is a blast of tropical fruit, and Domaine Leasingham Cabernet-Malbec is a racy, lush red. On the kiwi front, New Zealand has always been best at whites, though recently many producers are trying to imitate a California style. My favorite remains Kumeu River Chardonnay. A new import to this country, Larose Cabernet Blend is outstanding, but will be, for awhile, difficult to find.

That should be enough to fill your shopping basket and delight your palate for at least the next month. Besides, we can always take our towel, toothbrush and corkscrew and set off on another journey again soon.


Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

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Wine Notes – January-February 1997

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
January – February 1997

One of the more enjoyable tasks we have at our restaurants is the search for new wines. Our staff were invited to spend a day out searching the hills of the Hudson Valley for something new in the local wine world. As you can see, we put in a long, hard day up at Millbrook Vineyards. Though we sampled Millbrook’s selection during a tour of the winery with marketing director Doug Simon, we felt it necessary to continue our research. The idyllic weather gave us the perfect opportunity to pair them with food in a more natural setting. You’ll find our “pick of the litter” in Millbrook’s Tocai Friulano, a light, crisp white, perfect as an apertif or with lighter dishes. Pictured from left to right: Felidia sommelier Dan Perlman, Felidia general manager Amgad Wahba, public relations director Shelly Burgess, and Becco & Frico manager Simon Dean; photo by Felidia kitchen extern Ross Posmentier.

Just Desserts

Food and wine are naturals together, we all know that. We pair whites and lighter reds with fish and pastas, bigger reds with meats and even here and there try some more interesting combinations. But often we overlook the chance to try a wine match at the end of the meal. True, we indulge in the occasional glass of port or madeira, but we generally don’t even glance at the dessert wines.

But what could be more natural than a refreshing and lightly sparkling Moscato d’Asti or Asti Spumante with fruit or sorbet? How about a rich Sauternes, Torcolato, Acininobili or Recioto della Valpolicella with chocolate? Or any of a range in between – Picolit, Vin Santo, Malvasia – just to name a few.

At Felidia, we offer anywhere from two to three dozen selections, a few by the glass, most by the half or full bottle. We prefer to call them Vini da Meditazione, or Wines of Meditation, because these are wines that help you to sit back, relax, and contemplate not just the sensations on your palate, but your entire food and wine experience at our table.

Sommelier Q&A

Can you tell me a little about the different types of dessert wines? I hear about things like “late-harvest”, “botrytis”, “ice wine” and the like, and I don’t know what those are.

The simplest one you asked about is “late-harvest”. The grapes are left hanging on the vine after normal picking time. This allows them to get extra ripe and extra flavorful. The increased sugar levels in late-harvested grapes means that when they are fermented, the wine will stay sweet.

“Botrytis” is the species name of a type of beneficial fungus that grows on grapes in certain conditions. The fungus literally pokes holes in the grape skins, allowing water to evaporate and concentrating both sugar and flavor. That and the flavors of the fungus itself create some of the world’s greatest dessert wines.

“Ice wine” or “eiswein” is an extreme version of late-harvesting. Grapes are left on the vines until the first freeze. They are picked while frozen, crushed and fermented. Because much of the water is ice the juice pressed from the grapes is extremely concentrated. Ice wines are rare because the chances of grapes surviving the first freeze of the season are slim, and few winemakers care to take their chances.

Dan Perlman, Sommelier

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Post-Chanukah Stress Syndrome Supper

19961215

Post-Chanukah, Pre-Christmas, it was holiday time, and this was just a chance to unwind with some friends and have a little fun re-imagining some of the traditional foods I grew up with.

POST-CHANUKAH STRESS SYNDROME SUPPER
ONE CULINARY ITERATION AT A TIME
5 TEVET 5757 – 15 DECEMBER 1996

aunt sadie’s sweet potato sausages with lentils
n.v. francesco bellei brut

uncle mortie’s potato pancakes with apple chutney
1992 domaine monthelie-douhairet meursault ‘les cras’ 1er cru

gramma seidel’s borscht with paté filled wontons
1988 giovanni dri ‘il roncat’

cousin benny’s roast poussins with mole spices
1976 château gruaud larose saint-julien

grampa sal’s fresh mozzarella
1991 four chimneys special select reserve

momma’s chocolate-orange souffle cakes
coffee

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Wine Notes: December 1996 – January 1997

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
December 1996 – January 1997

Tiny Bubbles

What exactly is this bubbly stuff that set everyone but Cole Porter a tingle? Where does it come from? How is it made? Whose idea was it anyway?

Let’s start with the last question. Despite common myth, it was not everyone’s favorite little monk, Dom Pérignon. In fact, it was no one person – whole bunches of favorite little monks, along with other local winemakers and grape growers – came up with the process. And the process is simple. Make wine, put it in a bottle, add a little sugar and yeast, and cork the bottle. The sugar and yeast ferment, creating carbon dioxide (remember that stuff from chemistry class?), and the gas is trapped in the bottle by the cork. Voila! As they say.

What dear old Pierre Pérignon did was create the principle of the “cuvée”, or blend. Rather than taking one house wine and making it sparkle, resulting in a simple, if still refreshing beverage, he blended wines of different flavors and styles before bottling, thus creating the complex bubbly juice that we now know and love. What he also did was come up with a light pressing procedure to obtain clear juice from red grapes.

Champagne is not only a wine, but a region, and by law, only grapes grown in the region, and made into wine in the region, may be called Champagne. The grapes are limited to three varieties; Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. If a Champagne is made from only Chardonnay it may be called “blanc de blancs”. If from only the two Pinots, “blanc de noirs”. It may be made in any of several dry styles; Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Sec, or in sweet styles; Sec, Demi-Sec and Doux, all by adding a little more sugar, or not, at the end.

Most Champagne is non-vintage. That is, it is made from a blend of wines not only from different grapes and parts of the region, but from different years of production. Why? Because each Champagne house can create a “house-style” that reflects a particular character of bubbly they wish to promote. It may be light and crisp, it may be ponderous and toasty.

In particularly good years, vintners may opt to make a vintage champagne which is reflective more of the quality and style of the grapes and the harvest than the house style. At the pinnacle for most producers, a “tête de cuvée” or prestige blend, made from the best blending wines the house has available.

These same techniques have been carried throughout the winemaking world. The names have changed, the grapes have changed, but whether your sparkler comes from Champagne, France; Sonoma, U.S. of A.; or Veneto, Italy; the important thing is that it’s the perfect choice for starting your holiday season meal!


Sommelier Q&A

How often does a winelist this big change?

Daily. It’s our feeling that our customers deserve the best selection of wines and the best information we can provide about them. Every time they dine with us. Part of my job is to keep the list as up-to-date as possible to reflect new wines we’ve selected (you can’t drink them if you don’t know about them), when we run out of a wine (with over 500 selections dating back to the 1800s, this happens regularly, or even just a vintage change. It is a rare day when there isn’t at least one change somewhere on the list.

 

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Orient Express

19961110

orient expressI was trying to figure out why I picked this particular date to celebrate the route of the Orient Express, but nothing comes to mind, nor shows up in online searches. It would have made more sense for one of our October dinners, as the inauguration of the service was on October 4, 1883. I do recall that I picked out some of the key stops from what I think was the original route, or at least one of the earliest routes, and each course followed on that theme. I also wrote the menu, obviously, as if it were excerpts from someone’s travel diary. Go figure, I was being creative.

10 November 1996

…a harrowing cab ride, we met up with the rest of the Second Sunday Supper Circle at Gare de L’Est in Paris at 7:30 p.m. Weather delightful. One of the group brought along a wonderful bottle of Champagne to start us on our journey. The chef served a ramekin of earthy Truffle Soup under puff pastry…

…pulling into Strasbourg, a lovely town in Alsace. The chef whipped up some local fare, a roasted shallot flan with chive cream and cured salmon. A bottle of 1992 Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer…

…safely in Munich. Just time to sample a roulade blue-poached mackerel with root vegetables and a tomato-bacon dressing. The conductor found a bottle of 1990 Spatburgunder from Schloss Schonborn he found in his private cellar….

…reached Vienna we were ready for some good old red meat. A few slices of beef served with a dried strawberry sauce and flamed in cognac was just the ticket. A simple but rich 1993 Blauburgunder from Umathum was a perfect foil to the rare meat…

…be in Budapest at this time of year and we found ourselvse a little cafe that served up a delightful combination of Stilton, Rocquefort, & Harbourne blue cheeses with a bottle of 1976 Tokay Aszu Essencia. An experience fit for…

…for a brief stop in Bucharest before we board our ship across the Black Sea. Gave us time to sample the local poppyseed torte with Slivovitz cream…

a smooth crossing and arrived in Constantinople in good spirits. Just time for a cup of good, strong, local coffee before the embassy limo…

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East Village Eats

Q San Francisco
November 1996
Pages 34-36

New York
The QSF Guided Tour

East Village Eats

eveatsWelcome to the new frontier. Sure the East Village is home to New York’s grunge set. And yes, it’s still probably the easiest place to score whatever mind-altering substance you crave. It’s also the simplest place in the city to get a tattoo as well as being home to New York’s cutting-edge artists, theaters, music scene, clubs and performance art. Best of all, some of the hottest new restaurants in town are springing up like mushrooms after a rainstorm. Maybe they don’t rate four stars in the New York Times, but try to get a reviewer to cover this neighborhood.

Leading the pack is First. Chef Sam DeMarco knows good food. Actually he knows great food. The first thing you notice as you enter into the gleaming bar is the ceiling, stretched with a fantasy of tightrope wire, chrome and a strange facsimile of Star Wars’ Death Star (contrary to rumor, it doesn’t move). Highlights on the menu are an appetizer of guinea hen with caramelized onion, pistachios and plum sauce, and an always delicious pasta of the day. In the mood for something big? Come Sundays for the roast suckling pig special. Want a truly memorable experience? Let Sam prepare his five-course tasting for you. Check out the well-selected wine and beer lists, too. (First, 87 1st Avenue between 5th & 6th Streets, 212-674-3823.)

A couple of blocks away is Circa. This place tops my list for decor. Polished copper tabletops reflect artfully planned lighting. The surrounding walls mix exposed brick, wood and strange giant leaves. The bar is a long, curving S, with rows of bottles tempting you to just stop in for a drink. You can sit and relax in the front lounge area, or grab a table and sit down to dine. Chef Frank DeCarlo is another whiz in the kitchen.

From the main menu, don’t miss the lobster, tomato and artichoke risotto. Pastas are also great here. Where Circa really shines though is brunch. It may be the hardest meal for a restaurant to do right (we’re all at our pickiest late Sunday mornings) but Circa does it brilliantly. Don’t miss the huge plate of biscuits with sausage gravy. A pot of tea and the smoked salmon platter is my idea of a perfect weekend afternoon. A great wine selection from local consultant Steve Miller rounds out the experience. (Circa, 103 2nd Avenue at 6th Street, 212-777-4120.)

Hidden away on a block that looks like somewhere your mother told you never to go is Casanis. A cool little hole-in-the-wall French bistro where chef Sebastian Macszo turns out some of the best “simple” food around. The room is likewise simple, standard French food and drink posters adorn the wood and plaster walls. Tables are crammed tightly together, so plan on getting to know your neighbors – but that’s part of the East Village experience these days. Highlights on the menu include the salad with chevre and dried cherries, and the main course of roasted and confited duck with a lemon-fig sauce. The daily specials are always tempting, even when, as often is the case, your waiter can’t remember what they are. The wine list is chockfull of unusual selections from the French countryside, making this a don’t miss dinner. Oh, one note, cash only. (Casanis, 54 E. 1st Street between 1st & 2nd Avenues, 212-777-1589.)

Across the street from the Joseph Papp Public Theater is L’Udo. Rustic brick, frescos and a garden make a great setting for simple Provençal. An early prix-fixe menu offers the perfect meal before heading to the Public Theater or just down the block to the long-running Blue Man Tubes production. Highlights of the regular menu are the baked sea bass with saffron broth and Provençal vegetables, and for dessert, a baked apple with calvados and vanilla ice cream. The wine list reflects the cuisine, concentrating on simple country wines from both France and Italy, though many a trifle on the pricey side for what they are. Still, L’Udo is a delightfully romantic place. (432 Lafayette Street just south of Astor Place, 212-388-0978.)

It is impractical to discuss East Village dining without at least giving a nod to the strip of 6th Street known as Little India. A couple of dozen Indian restaurants line up side by side on both sides of the street and trail around the corners. Most are basic, with virtually identical menus. Though not hot or trendy, one stands above the rest, Windows on India. The corner location, lots of windows, beautiful lighting and impeccable service make this the spot for Indian dining in the East Village. A far ranging menu that even includes selections from Indonesia offers a vast number of dishes. My favorite appetizer is dal papri, a cold salad of potatoes, yogurt and tamarind sauce topped with crunchy diamonds of fried lentil fritters (the word “fritter” pops up more times on the menu than I cared to count). The best of the main courses come from the tandoori oven; go for a combination platter of your favorite meats, fish and vegetables. Unusual for an Indian restaurant, Windows on India offers a wine list, most of which is well picked to go with the cuisine. (Windows on India, 344 E. 6th Street at 1st Avenue, 212-477-5956.)

Numerous other culinary adventures await those of you who venture into the hinterlands of the East Village. There are the traditional and long-lived delis like the Second Avenue Deli, Katz’s and Ratner’s; Polish and Russian fare is served up from Kiev to Veselka to Christine’s, while Asian cuisine from all over – Lavo (Thai), Angry Monk (Tibetan), Esahi and Iso (Japanese), Indochine (Vietnamese) – are some of my favorites. One of the nicest things about dining out in this neighborhood is that you can have a great meal and your credit card won’t have a meltdown when the bill arrives.


Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

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