Bastille Day Picnic Dinner
Self explanatory, no?
Pissaladière
Cuvée Notre-Dame des Cellettes
Tomates Farcies
Gratin de Bettes au Verjus
Camembert
Pissaladière
Cuvée Notre-Dame des Cellettes
Tomates Farcies
Gratin de Bettes au Verjus
Camembert
Tag Archive: France
Pissaladière
Cuvée Notre-Dame des Cellettes
Tomates Farcies
Gratin de Bettes au Verjus
Camembert
World Eats – Paris!
Issue 5 – October 2001
While many of the best new restaurants in Paris are found in the outer arrondissment, it is well worth the effort to get there and have the added pleasure of experiencing a wonderful new neighborhood while enjoying some of the world’s finest cuisine.
Restaurant L’Alivi
The island of Corsica is not the first place I thought of when I started planning my dining itinerary in Paris. Two of my friends, temporary ex-pats (read that as “student visas”) suggested a visit to Alivi as a great way to begin our jaunt through the neighborhood bistros. Only a block or two off the main drag through the Marais, this turned out to be a charming, postcard scene of a restaurant. The food was damned good too.
The menu is in French and Corsican, a dialect based much closer to Italian. This helped immensely, since my French is almost non-existent, but my Italian is completely passable. Eric Gauthier’s food is a mix of classic and experimental Corsican fare-hearty and rich. The wine list is also Corsican, and outside of that island, where else are you going to find a couple of dozen selections from Patrimoniu, Aiacciu and Porti Vechju?
The menu changes somewhat regularly. A few dishes like the leek mousse and the chicken breast in Corsican honey seem to stay. We had some truly outstanding fare: cured sardine and fennel salad; goat rillettes; baby crabs stuffed with sausage; roast lamb stuffed with beet greens; and a citron tart with fresh figs, stewed figs with ice cream. Be sure to sample the Corsican cheeses. The menu and wine list are posted on the restaurant’s website (www.restaurant-alivi.com).
Restaurant Alivi, 27, rue du Roi de Sicile, 01-48-87-90-20. A three-course dinner with wine will be $35-$40.
Les Amognes
This restaurant takes a special effort to get to, being on the far eastern edge of Paris. The young lady who took us there miscalculated metro stops, so we hiked a good mile along the rue du Faubourg Sainte-Antoine, a fascinating part of Paris populated by salsa clubs, street markets, aspiring fashion designer shops and furniture stores. We had been warned that we were in for a treat food-wise, but that the atmosphere was somewhat “off-beat.” In the Paris version of Zagat the food got a “21” and the decor got an “8.” Okay, it’s a semi-basement, whitewashed with plain wooden tables. The paintings on the wall tend to be abstract female nudes. The clientele is a trifle rough and tumble, but clearly “into” the food.
Being “into” food is a truly smart idea here. Chef Thierry Coué believes in experimentation. He has ventured into the world of vegetable, fruit and spice purees and enhancements, with fresh, clean flavors that are mostly on target. There are more hits than misses on the menu, and that’s what I want from an experimenting chef. The menu changes daily and is market driven, which, given the range of amazing produce in the local street markets, is a great thing.
Steamed asparagus with a fresh herb beurre blanc and a terrine of warm sausages with an onion and currant marmalade are amazing. A skate-wing with red cabbage and onion fries, and a truly outstanding seared calves’ liver with a carrot and ginger sauce were the winners of the evening. Desserts received mixed reviews, with raves going to a grapefruit gratin with grapefruit ice on top and gasps of “how odd” going to the warm crepe filled with a cardamom and eggplant compote topped with an intense orange sauce. A well-selected and fairly priced wine list features bottles from throughout France, but shows a special affinity for smaller producers, especially from the Rhône valley.
Les Amognes, 243, rue de Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 01-43-72-73-05. Three course dinner with wine will run $35-40. [Closed, the chef now has a restaurant called Wadja.]
Chez Michel
Just as I think it’s a must in the United States to go to any place named Billy’s, regardless of what small town you find yourself in, in France, the ubiquitous venue is named Chez Michel. A bit off the beaten track, on a side street near the Gare du Nord, this place came with high recommendations for chef Thierry Breton’s inventive twists on the cuisine of Brittany. Unfortunately a week or two before we arrived, the restaurant had been “discovered” by a writer from Gourmet magazine. The room and sidewalk were jam-packed with American tourists, all with copies of the review in hand. We almost turned around and left. Fortunately, by the time your arrive in Paris, most of the tourists will have move on to the next spot that gets a rave-luckily, this Chez Michel will remain for you to enjoy.
What can be said about broiled lobster folded with a soft-roasted ostrich egg and served in the eggshell, except, get yourself on a plane to Paris and eat it! Also try the chilled Breton lobster soup with cucumbers and black olives, or maybe the baby clams roasted with herb butter and hazelnuts. Then move on to haddock brandade with roasted filets of rouget or the foie gras on spice bread with a beet vinaigrette and asparagus. Finish with traditional Paris Brest or Kouing Amman (a sort of stack of ultra-thin pastry leaves filled with butter and sugar). The wine list is decent, with a scattering of wines from throughout France. The selection of wines by the glass, apertifs and digestifs is better here and than most other venues I’ve seen.
Chez Michel, 10, rue de Belzunce, 01-44-53-06-20. Three-course dinner with wine will run $40-45.
Le Cottage Marcadet
Up in Montmarte, on the north side of the Sacre Coeur, is a little gem of a restaurant, Le Cottage Marcadet. Along a busy thoroughfare, this refined, elegant favorite is a bastion of customer service. The proprietor himself takes care of each table, functioning as waiter, busboy and bartender. Chef Robin tends to each and every plate, ensuring that his food meets his personal high standards.
This is not a restaurant for inventive, outré dishes. The cuisine is classic Parisian-simple pan roasted fish and meats, with classic sauces, beautifully presented. The produce is absolutely fresh, the flavors impeccably pristine. The wine list is short with a simple selection of inexpensive Bordeaux and Burgundy. Both a prix fixe (with wine included) and an a la carte option are offered. The short menu changes regularly to reflect market availability. The chef has a deft hand with fish – we had a simple filet of sole that was outstanding. Try the creme brulee for dessert.
Le Cottage Marcadet, 151 bis, rue Marcadet, 01-42-57-71-22. Three course dinner with wine will run $30-35. [Closed, I understand that Chef Jean-Marie Robin moved (retired?) to Crete]
Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.
Beaujolais: Gamay at its Best
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
May-June 2000
Pages 80-82
Twice while I worked for Santé, I was asked to do all the tasting and write-ups of tasting notes, for articles written by other writers, in this case Rob Costantino. I remember it seemed odd both times that the author wasn’t tasting the wines they were referencing in the article, but hey, I got to taste lots of wines.
Reviewer’s Choice
Coudert / 1998 Fleurie Clos de la Roilette
Dark berry fruit, a touch of smoke and geraniums. A great selection with game fowl and darker poultry dishes.
Domaine Manoir du Carra / 1998 Non-Filtre
Allspice, berries, Moreno cherries and just a touch of smoke make this a great choice for grilled meats.
Louis Jadot / 1998 Moulin-à-Vent Château des Jacques
Cinnamon sticks, cloves, cocoa and orange peel, with a good does of cherries underneath. Perfect with seared pork dishes.
Pierre et Paul Duridilly
1998 Les Grandes Coasses
Upfront tobacco and blackberry aromas; good, long finish. Delightful on its own or with a grilled T-bone steak. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $88/case]
Domaine Madone
1998 Le Perreon
Very forward grapy flavors but slightly green; a trifle hot on the finish. A good, basic “burger” wine. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $96/case]
Olivier Ravier Signé
1998 Domaine des Sables d’Or
Raspberries, white pepper and a touch of green stemminess. A simple and basic quaffing wine. [Serge Doré Selections, 914-243-7950, $54/case]
Bouchard Père & Fils
1998 Le Chamville
Sweet cherry fruit, with a touch of cinnamon oil that works well with spicy sausage dishes. [Clicquote, Inc., 212-888-7575, $85/case]
Domaine Manoir du Carra
1998 Non-Filtre
Allspice, berries, Moreno cherries and just a touch of smoke make this a great choice for grilled meats. [Kysela Père et Fils, Ltd., 540-722-9228, $80/case]
Georges Duboeuf
1998 Flower Label
White pepper and wild raspberries with a good amount of depth. Delightful with simple veal dishes. [W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., 914-273-1221 / Winesellers, Ltd., 847-679-0120, $42/case]
Jaffelin
1998
Smoked meats, red cherries and a touch of light spice. Perfect with a charcuterie plate. [Rémy Amerique / Premiere Wine Merchants, 212-399-4200, $80/case]
Jean-Claude Boisset
1998
Smooth and velvety, good Swiss milk chocolate, with bright cherry fruit. Great wiht roast chicken or sautéed veal. [Boisset U.S.A., 800-878-1123, $72/case]
Léonard de Saint-Aubin
1998
A touch of grilled meats, with dark Amarene cherries. A nice match with lighter game dishes. [Parliament Import Co., 609-348-3690, $64/case]
Louis Jadot
1998
Yellow plums, nutmeg and a touch of black pepper. Perfect with chicken or other light poultry dishes. [Kobrand Corp., 212-490-9300, $65/case]
Maison de Lamartine
1998
Simple, grapy, lightly sweet and easily quaffable wine. A nice bar pour with casual bar snack food. [Kysela Père et Fils, Ltd., 540-722-9228, $80/case]
Prosper Maufoux
1998
Candied cherry fruit with a touch of cinnamon red hots. A tasty choice with a classic spinach and bacon salad. [The House of Burgundy, Inc., 212-247-0550, $82/case]
Ch. de Lavernette
1998
Red plums, fairly hot and just a touch of bubblegum. A simple quaffing wine. Great with appetizers. [Michel-Schlumberger Wines, Ltd., 707-433-7427, $112/case]
Ch. de Lavernette
1998 Beaujolais-Leynes
Dark, rich, chocolate and cherry fruit with incredible depth and spice. A great steak wine. [Michel-Schlumberger Wines, Ltd., 707-433-7427, $144/case]
Georges Duboeuf
1998 Chiroubles Flower Label
Slightly hot, with bright raspberry fruit. Delightfully simple. The perfect wine for a grilled chicken Caesar salad. [W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., 914-273-1221 / Winesellers, Ltd., 847-679-0120, $61/case]
Georges Duboeuf
1998 Morgon Flower Label
Plums, fairly hot, and a bit of cherry eau-de-vie. An interesting choice with a cheese plate. [W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., 914-273-1221 / Winesellers, Ltd., 847-679-0120, $61/case]
Ch. de Saint-Lager
1998 Brouilly
Red plums, spicy and a touch of floral. Nicely balanced to work with duckling or goose. [David Milligan Selections, Inc., 516-537-7126, $96/case]
Olivier Ravier Signé
1998 Côte de Brouilly Domaine de la PIerre Bleue
Milk chocolate, sour cherries, lightly floral. simple wine that would match quite well with chicken dishes. [Serge Doré Selections, 914-243-7950, $85/case]
Bernard Broyer
1997 Chénas
Smooth, grapy, with notes of lavender and violets. Delightful with light fish and poultry dishes. [T. Edward Wines, Ltd., 212-233-1504, $128/case]
Bernard Broyer
1998 Juliénas Vieilles Vignes
Very floral, elements of candied cherries and licorice. For lighter dishes, such as fish and seafood. [T. Edward Wines, Ltd., 212-233-1504, $128/case]
Nicole Chanrion
1998 Côte de Brouilly
Dark cherry fruit and notes of slightly sweet liqueur, quite spicy. Great choice for roasted veal. [Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 510-524-1524, $136/case]
Coudert
1998 Fleurie Clos de la Roilette
Dark berry fruit, a touch of smoke and geraniums. A great selection with game fowl and darker poultry dishes. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $144/case]
Ch. de La Chaize
1998 Brouilly
Extremely ripe, raisiny fruit with characteristics of fresh mint. Light texture with strong sour cherry flavors and a hint of orange rind. Extremely pleasing from beginning to end. Spicy pasta dishes or pâté. [Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Co., 707-942-3357, $108/case]
Louis-Claude Desvignes
1998 Morgon Javemière
Soft plum fruit, a bit of tannin, nicely structured to work well with a grilled steak. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $136/case]
Domaine des Grand Cras
1997 Morgon
Blackberry and plum. Hot and spicy, with really wonderful structure. Perfect with game roasts. [Kysela Père et Fils, Ltd., 540-722-9228, $104/case]
Domaine Laurent Dumas et Fils
1998 Fleurie
Blackberries, floral, light smokiness and a touch hot. Definitely a choice for lighter game meats. [Jeroboam Wines, 212-625-2505, $136/case]
Domaine Sparre
1998 Moulin-à-Vent Henri De Villamont
Bittersweet chocolate, light spices and dark cherry fruit. Grilled pork and veal would be a perfect choice. [Admiral Wine Merchants, 800-582-9463, $123/case]
Joseph Drouhin
1998 Fleurie
Light and earthy, with floral notes and wild berry flavors. Lighter game and meats, preferably grilled. [Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., 212-818-0770, $141/case]
Joseph Drouhin
1998 Moulin-à-Vent
Floral aromas, with milk chocolate and light cherry fruit flavors. A nice choice with lighter poultry. [Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., 212-818-0770, $141/case]
Joseph Drouhin
1998 Brouilly
Sour cherry fruit. Tannic now, needs time. I would plan on this with a duck dinner next year. [Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., 212-818-0770, $125/case]
Joseph Drouhin
1998 Morgon
Blackberry, lightly floral and white pepper notes. Nicely balanced to go with game fowl. [Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., 212-818-0770, $122/case]
Ch. de Fuissé
1997 Morgon Charmes
Fizzy, raspberry and blackberry fruit, somewhat hot. An off-bottle but the structure is clearly there. Recommended with lighter game meats. [Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd., 212-355-0700, $108/case]
Jeffelin
1998 Brouilly
Milk chocolate-covered cherries, a bit high in acidity with light tannins. Needs some time, but will partner well with red meats. [Rémy Amerique/Premiere Wine Merchants, 212-399-4200, $112/case]
Louis Jadot
1998 Fleurie Château de Poncié
Geraniums and roses, fairly high acidity, raspberries. Veal and pork dishes are the way to go. [Kobrand Corp., 212-490, 9300, $120/case]
Louis Jadot
1998 Moulin-à-Vent Château des Jacques
Cinnamon sticks, cloves, cocoa and orange peel, with a good does of cherries underneath. Perfect with seared pork dishes. [Kobrand Corp., 212-490, 9300, $135/case]
Maison de Lamartine
1997 Côte de Brouilly
Bright cherry fruit, slightly high acidity, light spice. Chicken would be the best partner. [Kysela Père et Fils, Ltd., 540-722-9228, $120/case]
Raymond Mathelin et Fils
1998 Saint-Amour Domaine Touton
Plums, white pepper and a touch of floral notes. Nicely balanced to pair with lamb. [Bayfield Importing Co., 516-869-9170, $104/case]
Raymond Mathelin et Fils
1998 Fleurie Domaine des Grands Rochaux
Spicy, slightly hot, with dark berry flavors. Grilled sausage is a great match. [Bayfield Importing Co., 516-869-9170, $104/case]
Prosper Maufoux
1998 Brouilly
Quite simple, grape bubblegum flavors and aromas. Basic quaffing wine. [The House of Burgundy, Inc., 212-247-0550, $115/case]
Prosper Maufoux
1998 Moulin-à-Vent
Milk chocolate, cinnamon and cherry. A wine for simple poultry or pork dishes. [The House of Burgundy, Inc., 212-247-0550, $135/case]
Michel Tête
1998 Juliénas Clos du Fief
Candied violets, light cherry and spice. A nice wine to serve with fish. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $136/case]
Domaine Viornery
1998 Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Speciale
Lightly fizzy, spicy, Amarene cherries. Good with pork or veal chops. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $120/case]
Domaine Viornery
1998 Brouilly Cuvée Speciale
Light fizz, dark cherries and a touch of tannin. A great veal partner. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $120/case]
Guy Breton
1998 Morgon Vieilles Vignes
Dark plums, spice, tannic, great concentration. A nice choice with roasted venison. [Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 510-524-1524, $184/case]
Jean Foillard
1998 Morgon Côte du Py
Spicy, red plums and strong floral aromatics with great structure. Perfect with grilled red meats. [Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 510-524-1524, $192/case]
Marcel Lapierre
1998 Morgon
Soft and plummy, toasty oak, light spices, a nice touch of tannin. Needs some time to develop. A great partner with roast pork. [Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 510-524-1524, $184/case]
